Tuesday, November 17, 2009

First sights in Israel

Tel Aviv from the plane.

We usually take pictures of interesting oddities, one of a kind sights, bits that somehow signify the difference of Israeli life - so don't expect many famous historical photos.

Libby's favorite sign on first walk in Jerusalem

above this display.

Biblical symbolism in silver: the Ark of the Covenant

and Noah's Ark.

Inside Mehane Yehuda market.


Well worn poster at the entrance to Mea Shearim, the ultra orthodox quarter in Jerusalem.

The round Ethiopian Church

We obeyed this request.


And this one (though we have no idea what the language at bottom might be).

Thursday, November 12, 2009

We Love New York City


We've just about concluded our week long stay in NYC. Earlier today we down-loaded our boarding passes to the iphone--completely paperless!--and tomorrow afternoon we'll be flying off to Israel.
We were working on this blog entry at the 96th St. Public Library until it closed a short while ago, so now we are back at Sophia and Ping's apartment on Park Ave. They have been gracious and amiable hosts, giving us their living room for our bedroom, and generally taking good care of us.
Here is a sample of some of our city photos.


Skyscraper looming over Bryant Park


Subway music: entertainment and talent everywhere!



The fabulous New York City Public Library


We had a private tour of the special Pforzheimer Collection of Shelley and His Circle as part of the Conference on Romanticism.




The Metropolitan Opera, where we saw the extravagant Zeffirelli production of Puccini's Turandot with Debby and Udo: here we see the glittering hall, the audience and,



for Sam, the orchestra pit.


Glitzy shoes for shoppers. I think they are Rachel's size!


Unexpectedly odd store names.



IchiUmi, a gigantic sushi bar where we enjoyed a vast array of ultra fresh Japanese dishes.


Ice skating at Rockefeller Plaza.


Rockefeller Center at night.


We made our usual pilgrimage to the Plaza Hotel to pay our respects to Eloise:


Aaron had flown in from Singapore, so
he and Sophia strolled with us on a beautiful afternoon in Central Park.



Continuous rainbow!


Lloyd took this great shot of the reservoir.

Autumn ginkgo leaves.








Sunday, November 8, 2009

Sabbatical Projects

Our sabbatical travels allow us to visit friends and sites along the way, but we have three academic destinations in New York, Jerusalem, and Florence. I’ve completed part of the New York segment, so I can report on that and also describe what I anticipate in the weeks ahead.

1. New York

I’ve just attended the annual meeting of the International Conference on Romanticism, which I have enjoyed for fifteen years, and through my participation have had several articles published. The theme this year is “Romanticism and the City”— no doubt in honor of the host city, possibly the greatest city in the world. The title of the paper I presented is “Byron’s Celestial City: Childe Harold in Rome.” Byron’s Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage ends in Rome, and since I am also working on Byron for the Florence symposium on the Romantics and Dante (see below), it seemed a good idea to focus for this conference on what Rome—once the greatest city in the world—represents to Byron.

I wanted to understand what “the city” has meant historically to its citizens, and thus also what is significant about the condition of exile from one’s city. Byron himself was exiled from London and England, traveling through Belgium and Germany to Switzerland, and then to Italy. His travels in exile are, of course, the background for the fictitious Harold’s own travels. The idea of exile also is a significant connection to Dante, who was banished for his entire adult life from his beloved Florence. What is significant about the condition of exile?

I developed a theory of the city and of exile through Bernard Henri-Lévy’s The Testament of God. Debby Middelmann recently encouraged me to re-read it (it is one of her favorite books), so this project gave me the opportunity to read it carefully, take notes, and then fit it into my own interests. Lévy contrasts the radically different understanding of the city seen in classical Greek literature with that of the Hebrew Scriptures: the Greeks found their self-identity only as citizens of the polis; thus Socrates chose death in the city over exile from it. Both the Greek city-state and the Roman Empire demanded a religious allegiance to the city and its gods. In contrast, the Jews mark their origin as a people with Abraham, called out of the city, out of Ur of the Chaldees. Abraham becomes the first instance of the exile, the individual who chooses wandering over rootedness, a de-sanctified universe over pagan veneration of the local gods. What follows, in the Hebrew Scriptures, is the record of individuals rising up in prophetic denunciations against the injustice and evil perpetrated by the city.

Yet, while a corrupt Jerusalem is subject to prophetic critique, it is also portrayed in exilic writing as the hope of the future—Jerusalem rebuilt and restored. Zechariah envisions a time when “People will live in Jerusalem as though in open country” (2:8)—that is, when the old boundaries of pagan cities, with their blind loyalties, will be no more. Instead, Zechariah says, “There shall yet come peoples, the inhabitants of many cities; and the inhabitants of one city shall approach those of another, and say, ‘Come! Let us go to implore the favor of the LORD’; and, ‘I too will go to seek the LORD.’ Many peoples and strong nations shall come to seek the LORD of hosts in Jerusalem” (8: 20-22). This is the Hebraic idea of the city: the new Jerusalem, a city without walls and open to the world, a meeting place of individuals from multiple cities, who, like Zechariah himself, are free citizens, seeking justice and peace.

I then traced the historical developments that allowed Dante and, later, Byron, to have an identity as an exile. Dante wrote a wonderful letter in defiance of Florence in which he rejects the indignity of returning to Florence as a penitent in what he calls the “abject self-abasement of a soul of clay.” “What then?” asks Dante, “May I not gaze upon the mirror of the sun and stars wherever I may be? Can I not ponder on the sweetest truths wherever I may be beneath the heaven, but I must first make me inglorious, nay infamous, before the people and the state of Florence? Nor shall I lack for bread.” This declaration of independence from his native city shows a remarkable personal integrity: wherever he may be, he is himself, standing without fear beneath the canopy of the heavens—he is, we might say, a citizen of the universe. And furthermore, he need not depend on Florence for his life sustenance, but rather on a truer solidarity built between individuals.

I love and admire Dante’s sense of independence, the selfhood that allows him to stand alone. It is important to recognize that such a freedom is biblically-derived; you can’t get it from classical Greece and Rome. I suspect that even the modern freedom to travel, to immigrate, is a legacy of Abraham. America as a country is established on just such a view of community: not through blood or sacred soil hallowed by the gods, but a community of free individuals.

While in NYC I'll also be lecturing at King’s College for Udo Middelmann, the director of the Francis A. Schaeffer Foundation in Switzerland. I will speak on Harold Fisch, the Israeli literary critic/scholar, who is the focus of my sabbatical research in Israel. I’ll also be demonstrating how his literary hermeneutic works by analyzing three of my favorite poems, Blake’s “The Sick Rose”, Keats’ “Ode to a Nightingale”, and “Ode on a Grecian Urn.” More on that later.

2. Jerusalem

I plan to study the papers of Harold Fisch, the Israeli literary scholar and critic whose work has inspired my own thoughts and writings about literature over the past fifteen years. Our schedule will afford me plenty of time to examine his lecture notes, unpublished writings, and whatever else I may find. I also want to use some of our time in Israel to write up my thoughts for future publication. Of course, Libby and I are also looking forward to exploring more of Israel.

3. Florence

In late January I’ll be one of the participants in a week-long symposium on "The Romantics in Italy: Dante, Italian Culture, and Romantic Literature" at the Romualdo Del Bianco Foundation. Scroll down the website and click on my name to see more on my paper. This is a unique opportunity to engage in a sustained discussion with other scholars on the relationship of Dante to the Romantics while simultaneously enjoying the life of Florence. It will be a great conclusion to my sabbatical before flying home.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Drive to Annapolis

While in Washington, D.C. we enjoyed a beautiful afternoon drive to Annapolis, the capitol of Maryland and home of the Naval Academy as well as St. John's College, the unique "great-books" school. We loved strolling through narrow colonial streets and admiring lovely houses:





We also visited old St. Anne's Church:



which contains these historical plaques. It is so interesting to travel from Boston in the north to Annapolis in the south and find the same celebration, in the churches, of commitment to the Revolution. And, also, as here, an ecumenical spirit uniting Protestants and Catholics in the common cause of independence:


Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Beautiful faces at the National Gallery of Art

We began our short tour of the National Gallery with a special exhibit of works by the 17th century Dutch woman painter Judith Leyster.



In the next room are the gorgeous Vermeers, including Woman Holding a Balance.



Both depict interior domestic scenes so warm and human, so invitingly similar to our modern selves in every way but costume. These ladies seem ready to have coffee and chat, don't they?

I found this earlier portrait of Lucrezia Sommaria, by the Florentine painter Ghirlandaio, strikingly beautiful. She is cool and formal, not homey in the Dutch manner, but endlessly serene. How could she have imagined that so many would gaze upon her face these many centuries later?



Gentileschi's Saint Cecilia and an Angel is both heavenly and domestic, as the sweet angel holds music for the saint, who could be one of Lloyd's piano students, as she plays her instrument.



The only painting in America by Leonardo da Vinci is one of the National Gallery's special treasures. She is Ginevra de Benci, a cultured 15th century Florentine lady.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Folger Library in Washington D.C.

On Wednesday Gloria dropped us off at her nearby T station where we caught the trolley to Logan Airport for our short flight to Baltimore. Then we took a bus to a suburban subway station to ride the train to Pentagon Station in Washington DC. From there we boarded a local bus to Bob's street and walked to his apartment with our (small) luggage. Great to be greeted by old friends after a long day of travel.

We borrowed their car to drive into DC on Friday for the 11:00 tour of The Folger Shakespeare Library.




This perfectly preserved first folio edition is an impressive sight:



In the special exhibit, Imagining China: The View from Europe, 1550–1700, we were delighted to see this image of the jackfruit we had seen the day before in a Vietnamese store.


Sunday, November 1, 2009

Ethnic afternoon

Since our old friends Bob and Liz have been posted many places with the State Department they know a lot about ethnic enclaves in the DC area. Right now Bob is in the middle of language training in Pashto for his posting to Afghanistan next year. We chased around to find two Afghani stores where Bob discussed fine points of language with the owners, followed by Flame Kabob, the place his language teacher says is the best for Afghan food, where the four of us enjoyed a tasty lunch.






We were impressed by these strange large fruits at a Vietnamese shop.